Calcutta-based designer, Sabyasachi, can best be described as the Marni of Indian fashion: quirky, off kilter, contemporary and highly relevant fashion for women that don’t do fashion. He has a loyal following and is much like fellow designer Manish Malhotra in his influence over general Indian fashion. What we see on the catwalk one evening will be copied the length and breadth of India the following lunch time (hardly anyone hits the haberdashers before then!).
Although Sabyasachi has not specifically aimed his collection at the wedding market, the animals nevertheless came in two by two and the matching His ‘n’ Hers styles had great impact. At least for a show, in real life it would look a bit creepy to me.
The third thing to make this a party was the inspiration … opium! The heady drug of choice of bygone times but more specifically the 1920s. Indian fashions change only slightly over millennia 20s, 30s, 90s who cares the overall silhouette remains the same although the great Sabyasachi gave a wink to the irresistible charm of Great Gatsby-esque flappers in one or two styles.
A predominantly muted colour palette was pierced by a delicious coral, one of my favourite colours (I wear it in clothing and on my lips even as I write!). My two criticisms of Sabyasachi are as follows: 1. the models at his shows seem never to have make-up on. I appreciate that he likes the perfect skin look, however, I think the models always look malnourished, tired and old in his shows especially as he is also fond of subdued lighting. My second gripe is that his sets, although meticulous in detail, are becoming predictable and the enjoyment and surprise is now missing. The catwalk is always packed with detail and props to help convey the mood but the layout is always the same and I’m bored of it.
I loved the collection over all and the sparkly sequin story looked fresh in Sabyasachi’s hands.