Tribal Designs and Military Precision at Day 3, Amazon India Fashion Week AW16

Anupama Dayal, AIFW AW16

A tribal trend was emerging on day 3 at Amazon India Fashion Week as a couple of designers showcased their latest collections for AW16. Whilst the catwalk looks may not translate into styles most

Sci-Fi Saree at Day 2 of Amazon India Fashion Week AW16

Rimzim Dadu, AIFW AW16

Indian designer, Rimzim Dadu took a break from fashion shows for a couple of years to re-organise her company. One might think she went from a catwalk to a lab coat: she created a technically striking ‘Back to The Future’ collection that included some traditional Indian

Through The Cinematic Lens with Debarun

Debarun, AICW 2015. Photography: Mashungsang Sangkhro

Debarun Mukherjee’s couture collection embarked on a journey through Indian cinematic costume through the decades from the black and white days of the 1930s to the present time. Of course, little has changed in hundreds of years of traditional Indian fashion let alone a few decades. Colours and trims come in and out of fashion

The Beloved by Manav Gangwani

Manav Gangwani, AICW 2015. Photography: Mashungsang Sangkhro

Indian couturier, Manav Gangwani’s show was entitled ‘Le’amoureuse’ or the beloved in English. He really should have stuck with English as the French is grammatically incorrect and has, incidentally, been widely re-printed with the same error across other media. I know this is a fashion review not a French lesson but if you’re going to have pretensions, at least Google your French.

Back to the collection… The show was set in a floral garden with a long winding catwalk. An hour late, the audience had to wait longer

Princesses of Persia

Anju Modi, AICW 21015. Photography: FDCI

Anju Modi’s show notes included a poem by my favourite Sufi poet, Rumi so I was won over from the start:

I asked, “Where is your home, beautiful moon?”

She said, “In the wreck of your heart so stone.

I am the sun shining into your ruin.

Long may you call this wild wasteland your home”.

Inspired by Persia, the show was entitled Kashish: an Urdu word, reflects an attraction, a deep desire and yearning for something; something which maybe never was. Well English words don’t mean so much do they?

Gaurav Gupta’s Nymphs & Goddesses

Gaurav Gupta, AICW 2015. Photography: Mashungsang Sangkhro

Amazon India Couture Week 2015 might be the show in which Gaurav Gupta got his mojo back after a pretty bad pret collection. The show was called ‘Silt and Cipher’ with models glamorously made up to resemble woodland nymphs and goddesses. The golden hair was amazing!

Rahul Mishra’s Couture Debut

 

 

Rahul Mishra, AICW 2015, Photography: FDCI

International Woolmark prize winner, Rahul Mishra has his Indian couture debut yesterday. His collection was aimed at the contemporising the bridal trousseau for the busy, multi-tasking, modern woman/bride and was inspired by the tree of life.

Sabyasachi Opens Amazon India Couture Week 2015

Calcutta based extraordinary couturier, Sabyasachi opened Amazon India Couture Week in glorious fashion. The designer’s trademark indulgent yet sophisticated designs and his meticulously details catwalk stage was inspired this season by India’s most common hunting bird, a ‘Bater’.

Sabyasachi, AICW 2015. Photography: Mashungsang Sangkhro

 

Rohit Bal’s Spectacular Grand Finale at WI Fashion Week

Rohit Bal @ WIFW SS15

Rohit Bal @ WIFW SS15

Wow!

So much beauty, luxury, indulgence, fashion and history all in the most stunning historic Mughal ruins in one of Delhi’s top tourist sites, Rohit Bal raised the bar to tremendous heights for Indian fashion. Even the moon and the weather obeyed the designer’s ode to beauty. The moon shone brightly to the right of one of the tombs at Qutab Minar and the outdoor temperature dropped from Sweaty to Serene.

A Tale of Two Indian Brides

Manish Malhotra IICW 2014

Manish Arora IICW 2014

A tale of two Indian brides and two very different Manish’s!

Indian designers, Manish Malhotra and Manish Arora have a cult global following for their distinctive designs, demonstrating the diversity of bridal fashion in India, a segment often overly saturated by lazy embellished designs.

Highborns Inspire High Couture

Monisha Jaising IICW 2014

Monisha Jaising IICW 2014

Mumbai based designer, Monisha Jaising unveiled her  most recent couture collection with some gorgeous designs that stood out from the week’s shows.  The inspiration behind the collection was a little too broad and the result was a confusing to watch but nevertheless there were some real gems.

Temples of Va Va Voom with Anju Modi

Anju Modi Couture Collection 2014

Anju Modi’s couture collection for 2014 was inspired by Varanasi ghats, a city dedicated to the gods.  Bold embroidery motifs reminiscing the temple-laden skyline adorned heavy bridal lehengas in a beautifully balanced colour palette of royal blue through to cherry tones and frosty pastels.

A Ticket To Ride with Sabyasachi

Sabyasachi Mukherjee at India Couture Week 2014

Sabyasachi Mukherjee at India Couture Week 2014

Top Indian couturier and tastemaker, Sabyasachi Mukherjee had the honour of opening India Couture Week 2014 (sponsored by Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers).  If there was ever an award for Most Creative Set, it would almost certainly always go to Sabyasachi.  The meticulous attention to detail entirely immerses one into the inspirational journey that the designer references each season and this year was no exception.  All aboard the turn-of-the-century Sabyasachi Express!

All-new India Couture Week 2014

Manish Malhotra 2014

If you’re interested in international fashion, you will be pleased to hear that the dates for India Couture Week have been announced.  The revamped six day event will have new partnerships: Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers as title sponsors, and Logix Group as its associate sponsors. The event in New Delhi will showcase India’s finest design talent in exclusive shows by top Indian Couturiers from 15-20 July 2014.

WIFW Photo Diary AW 2014

Mandira Wirk WIFW AW 2014

Mandira Wirk WIFW AW 2014

WIFW: Cool Kashmir

Zubair Kirmani WIFW AW 2014

Two designers were inspired by Kashmir for AW 2014/15: Zubair Kirmani and Mrilnalini. It was great to see how the same inspiration can produce such different results. Zubair’s collection was feminine indulgence and prettiness whereas Mrilnalini had a utilitarian approach.

Bohemian Travellers Spin The Fashion World Around

Anita Dongre WIFW AW 2014

A few designers at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week were inspired by the concept of a free spirited bohemian, vintage loving traveller.

Anita Dongre WIFW AW 2014

Anita Dongre’s Jaipur bride muse made Europe her playground for AW 2014.  Gorgeous tousled hair, peacock eyes and tassels were the continuing thread in an altogether beautiful collection.  The European reference didn’t come across as strong as the designer may have wanted as the prints and overall styling as very Indian ethnic.  Perhaps the Jaipur bride decided to park herself in Andalucia? 

Satya Paul, Icarus

Satya Paul WIFW AW 2014

The latest Satya Paul collection designed by Masaba Gupta was a lighthearted take on print and was entitled ‘Icarus’. The show notes say that ‘Icarus’ is an effort to revel in the cheerful, suggest the alternative and slightly alter the envelope. When I googled it I found reference to Greek mythology so let’s stick with the Satya Paul meaning.

Satya Paul WIFW AW 2014

Masaba is experimental and contemporary with her perspective on print and she is widely copied in the Indian export market. Her lipstick print last season and the water tap this season are fun and a welcome departure from flora and fauna inspired prints.

Urban Shikar

Abraham & Thakore WIFW AW 2014

Design duet, Abraham & Thakore’s collection was sponsored by Twinings, my favourite tea brand and a part of every morning of my life.

Abraham & Thakore WIFW AW 2014

The collection was aimed at sleek uniform dressing for the city, touching on safari. Who is the hunter or the hunted? Up to you! I loved the wild silks left in their natural golden shade and I particularly loved the leopard print twosie with the trench coat, it is so sophisticated yet wild.

Bibi, Lady of Leisure

 

Nikasha WIFW AW 2014

Regular Chatterboxes know I am a real sucker for Sufi poetry and I was delighted to find that designer, Nikasha had a Rumi poem in her show notes:

In your light I learn how to love…
In your beauty how to make poems
You dance inside my chest where no one else sees you,
but sometimes I do, and that sight becomes this art.

Wah wah, masha’allah! Ok, back to the collection.

Blue Blood on the Red Carpet

Charu Prashar WIFW AW 2014

Designer Charu Prashar’s collection was full of dramatic geometric patterns and body contouring silhouettes for confident women. Cobalt blue was the predominant shade paired with black for maximum drama.

The Silk Route’s Enduring Inspiration

Ashima-Leena WIFW AW 2014

Ashima-Leena’s collection inspiration is the tried and tested journey down the old silk route. I say this not to criticise but to emphasise that it remains fertile ground and has provided centuries of ideas to creatives.

Day 2 WIFW: Souk Souk, La Vie En Rose & Changing Perceptions

Myoho WIFW AW 2014

The latest Myoho by Kiran & Meghna collection entitled ‘Souk Souk’ is inspired by Morocco but with yogic aesthetics and a rustic colour palette of Persian blue, slate black and sindoor red (this is the red powder Hindu brides traditionlly wear in their hair parting).

Shantanu & Nikhil: The Shadows Within

Shantanu & Nikhil WIFW AW 2014

Shantanu & Nikhil are incredibly talented designers with impeccable attention to detail.  Their latest collection was inspired by timeless vintage travel.  The powder, blush and antique rose and apricot hues reminisced British colonial times.  Lace was the dominant detail and it was especially striking on the fingerless gloves worn by all the models.

Day 1 WIFW: Loving Life And The Art of Seduction

Vineet Bahl WIFW AW 2014

My fellow blogging buddies and I had to keep reminding ourselves that we were seeing AW collections as both Anupamaa and Vineet Bahl showed collections that could easily overlap the current Spring/Summer trends.  Shame we have to wait for the collections to hit stores!

Vineet Bahl used to be one of my favourite Indian designers due to his Western silhouettes which were gorgeous.  Over the last couple of years he has started specialising in India ethnic wear which I guess has more commercial sense for him but he was truly a refreshingly different designer for Western design.

His new AW14 is inspired by the celebration of every moment of life without prejudice and judgement.  The collection began with muted earthy handloom silks occasionally peppered with neon embellishment detail and pastel shades slowly crept in and made way for a myriad of vintage inspired colours and delicious combinations such as Prussian blue with peach. Want!!

Tarun Tahiliani: Art & Ornament

Tarun Tahiliani WIFW AW 2014

‘…Ornament as the principal embellishment is the glue that binds this collection together’ Tarun Tahiliani.

Setting the standard for the rest of Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week with a stellar opening show veteran Indian designer, Tarun Tahiliani, did not disappoint. His AW14/15 ready to wear collection was an indulgent voyage in worldly ornamentation and clever layering. Precious jewellery provided the colour palette and inspiration for embroideries.

Ruby, emerald, onyx, sapphire, gold, turquoise…an Aladdin’s cave of rich inspirational colour. Textiles included silk brocades, draped into structured salwar trousers and other fine silks used in flowing kaftan inspired silhouettes or as a base for amazing kaleidoscope prints. I was lucky enough to have a sneak preview of the collection at the fittings prior to the shows and the fabrics and styles are even more gorgeous close up.

WIFW SS14 Day 2: Photo Diary

WIFW SS14: Gaurav Jai Gupta

WIFW SS14: Gaurav Jai Gupta

Fossils, Bolly-Punk & Lagoons…Must Be Fashion Week

Fashion Becomes Fossilised

WIFW Designer: Nachiket Barve

WIFW Designer: Nachiket Barve

Old is the new New but not upcycled vintage … Indian designer Nachiket Barve was inspired by fossils and the balance between the preservation of fragile and strong forms.  The soft colour palette included oat and dusty rose: all shades that suit most skin tones. Dyeing techniques were experimented with

Manish Malhotra’s Couture Finale

Couturier Manish Malhotra needs no introduction.  Whilst Manish was inspired by the princely states and regalia of the 1930s, contemporary royalty in the form of Shah Rukh Khan and Bollywood princess Deepika Padukone walked the ramp for the designer. The beautifully coiffured hair underlined the inspiration with silhouettes and embroidery echoing the splendour of Indian – European architecture.  French shoe designer Christian Louboutin

Too Expensive For You

We all know about Oprah’s shameful discriminatory experience at an upmarket boutique in Switzerland whilst shopping for Tina Turner’s wedding (Tina Turner’s wedding news is amazing).  Oprah was being judged by the colour of her skin and, according to some journalists who have since analysed the story, the discrimination was also due to her weight.

This story broke in the same week that the New York Times published an article on the disgraceful racism in the fashion industry especially

Punjabi Rock n Roll & Kitsch Kedgeree

Who can say regardez-moi, the loudest?  On one monsoon evening in Delhi two of Indian fashion’s most entertaining designers presented their couture collections.  Both have strong associations with Paris but the words chalk and cheese were never more relevant.  The first was Ritu Beri, India’s 80s Paris-trained girl wonder whose show included a live band and a couple of designers she worked in collaboration with.

Exotic Punjab was the theme

The Princess Bride

Remember when Big and Carrie got married in Sex And The City? The second attempt, that is…the understated but elegant vintage outfit and small registry…That is the opposite of what was on offer for the gal that nothing short of fairytale and fantasy would do.  Both Ashima Leena and Rohit Bal showed bridal collections for princess brides albeit from slightly different inspirational eras.

One of the few Indian designers that can include mega international celebrities on his client list, Rohit Bal’s bridal collection was entitled The Mulmul Masquerade. 

The Gatsby Effect at Raghvendra Rathore

If every Englishman’s home is his castle then every Indian’s wardrobe is his or her majestic palace such is the dominance of royal inspiration in Indian design.  Couturier Raghvendra Rathore belongs to the royal family of Jodhpur (also known as the blue city) and thus has a vast archive of influences to draw from.

The press notes cite the 1920s as inspiration and this was clear in the pretty and attention-grabbing accessories.

JJ Valaya, The Maharaja of Madrid

The Maharaja of Indian couture, JJ Valaya’s opening show for AAmby Valley India Bridal Fashion Week was as spectacular as to be expected from a designer who spares no expense in executing his vision.

JJ’s previous couture collection was inspired by his visits to Turkey resulting in an exquisite fusion of silk route couture.  The Arab empire ruled in Spain for over 700 years before

Delhi Couture Week: Day 4

Day 4 of PCJ Delhi Couture Week 2012 presented two shows of opposite extremes.  Both designers referenced bridalwear but whereas Shantanu & Nikhil’s fantasy bride was gothic and dark, Manish Malhotra’s was a fluttery sugar-dipped princess.

Shantanu & Nikhil’s show notes were far too deep in reference points especially since they threw in the towel and conformed to produce a bridalwear collection.  Why not simply state that you want to do a different type of couture collection?

Referencing strong women

Designs From Delhi

Day 1 from Wills India Fashion Week in Delhi got off to a cracking start.  Autumn/Winter shows in Delhi are usually of loose relevance as designers forget it gets Very Cold Indeed here in Winter and offer bales of chiffon to supposedly keep us warm.  With a vodka shot please.

Veteran Indian designers showcase alongside the new generation and here I present three designers that showed yesterday and who can demonstrate the bredth of fashion coming from India:

This beautiful dress is by Preeti Chandra who offered a collection inspired by ‘matador chic’.   It’s quite a tried and tested inspiration of designers from all over the world

Oxbridge Underdog

UK Prime Minister, David Cameron, opened a can of worms on higher education when commenting on the entrance figures of ethnic minority students to Oxford or Cambridge. Although his statistics were slightly incorrect, the message was heard. Oxbridge is for the privileged and elite. There is no place there for state school students or ethnic minorities. They just don’t fit do they?