Vineet Bahl’s show at Amazon India Fashion Week was entitled Code and came with its own hashtags. The show notes said it was a collection for women who don’t dress to impress but are confident themselves.
Sanjay Garg, Amazon India Fashion Week SS 2016
Amazon India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016 in association with Maybelline is well under way and as usual, you can take a peak at the best shows here at The Chatterjis Blog!
Opening proceedings this season was top designer, Sanjay Garg and his brand Raw Mango. The show was dedicated to one fabric: mashru. Mashru was introduced to India by the Mughals it is a cotton and silk weave originally created to provide ‘halal’ fabric for menswear (silk for Muslim men is deemed haram, oh yes of course…). Production stopped in India in the 1940s inspiring Sanjay Garg and his company to re-instate the skill in Benaras. Now his hugely successful brand helps to keep the textile alive.
Sanjay Garg, Amazon India Fashion Week SS 2016
The designer’s vibrant colour palette and elaborate designs demonstrate the beauty and drape of the fabric. Repeat motifs and stripes are in step with the traditional origins of Mashru.
Kavita Bhartia, AIFW AW 2015
Celebrating 25 years as a designer, Kavita Bhartia showed a retrospective of her designs with a collection that cemented her place as a veteran designer. The collection wasn’t so much a celebration of her greatest hit as it was a big cheers to the future. Beautifully crafted in flattering silhouettes and tones, her Ogaan
Samant Chauhan @ WIFW SS15
Continuing his Rajputana theme this season designer, Samant Chauhan was inspired by romance and illusion and thus ‘dream’. Samant has a loyal band of followers and stockists sprawled across India and the Middle East and I’m sure they loved the intricate antique-look thread embroidery which is turning into a bit of a trend for next season.
Samant Chauhan WIFW AW 2014
‘Some travels take you so far that even when you return you are gone forever…probably it’s then they call it a journey’…the Rajputana Traveller.
Samant Chauhan WIFW AW 2014
Designer, Samant Chauhan grows in confidence each season with new chapters from his Rajputana fashion series. Continually drawing on inspiration from his native Indian state he keeps the collection looking bold and structured yet incredibly feminine.
Ashima-Leena WIFW AW 2014
Ashima-Leena’s collection inspiration is the tried and tested journey down the old silk route. I say this not to criticise but to emphasise that it remains fertile ground and has provided centuries of ideas to creatives.
Shantanu & Nikhil WIFW AW 2014
Shantanu & Nikhil are incredibly talented designers with impeccable attention to detail. Their latest collection was inspired by timeless vintage travel. The powder, blush and antique rose and apricot hues reminisced British colonial times. Lace was the dominant detail and it was especially striking on the fingerless gloves worn by all the models.
Raakesh Agarvwal showed a collection unlike any other (this was apparent even though it was still only day 1). Leather, audacious glamour and lots of skin meant this was a collection for younger women unaffected by silly things such as Winter.
Raakesh Agarvwal WIFW AW 2014
Design by Taurn Tahiliani
5 days, 31 shows and 119 designers… later this month I will bring you extensive coverage from Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2014. The dates for your diaries or mobile phone reminders are 26-30 March so be sure to check the blog for all the latest shows and reviews.
WIFW Pankaj & Nidhi SS14
Intricate adornments from Pompeii all the way to Medieval church facades…Indian designer duo, Panjak & Nidhi seemed to thoroughly enjoy researching the inspiration behind their Spring/Summer 2014 collection. Hand cut fabrics appliqued to give a 3D effect and transparency were key looks.
Zac by Zac Posen
Fashion, flash bulbs and lots of flapping around. You probably heard all the fashion weeks started a few weeks ago. I left it til near the end to summarise what you need to know as consumers (this article is part 1 of 4). For all the attention that the official fashion weeks get, they are nevertheless trade events and not open to the public. They are extremely photogenic events to pepper media cycles routinely filled with political scandal and daily humdrum.
Calcutta-based designer, Sabyasachi, can best be described as the Marni of Indian fashion: quirky, off kilter, contemporary and highly relevant fashion for women that don’t do fashion. He has a loyal following and is much like fellow designer Manish Malhotra in his influence over general Indian fashion. What we see on the catwalk one evening will be copied the length and breadth of India the following lunch time (hardly anyone hits the haberdashers before then!).
The hottest ticket in town was the Manish Arora’s closing show for Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2013. “Squeeze up some more!” were the cries from the pretty PR organisers to the press pack as we shuffled this way and that to make room for late arrivals.
Design by Payal Pratap
Payal Pratap and Rahul Mishara’s presentations were sponsored by Fiama Di Wills, the Indian beauty product giant. Under the theme ‘Be Young’ both collections pined for yesteryear.
Styled and visualised in the theme of a circus, the circus was not actually cited in the show notes. Pero by Aneeth Arora is the winner of Vogue India’s first Fashion Fund and this was her first presentation since winning the award, for which she received the cash prize after the show.
Indian Celebrity, Esha Gupta featured in Manish Malhotra’s show
There are few designers in the Indian fashion industry that can start a trend like Manish Malhotra. His influence in Indian cinema is so great and the trickling effect on to TV sets beamed around a billion homes is no small accomplishment. In this way,
Designer Rajdeep Ranawat’s collection was inspired by a hypothetical world with a hint of exotic Medieval. The collection featured intricate embroideries and lovely accessories. The Elton John embellished glasses were my favourite.
One of my favourite collections so far at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2013 is Shantanu & Nikhil‘s ode to the luxury traveller with reference to The Thar, India’s largest desert.
Designer Tarun Tahiliani is a formidable force in the Indian fashion industry and this season he took inspiration from the Kumbh, a religious festival, and Sadhus – the saffron draped wandering spiritual men.
The tension in the lead up to fashion weeks is tangible in studios where designers will be fussing over the finishes to garments that have taken months to come to fruition. Paris fashion week is currently in full swing, however, I’m in Delhi and Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2013 is under two weeks away.
Day 4 of PCJ Delhi Couture Week 2012 presented two shows of opposite extremes. Both designers referenced bridalwear but whereas Shantanu & Nikhil’s fantasy bride was gothic and dark, Manish Malhotra’s was a fluttery sugar-dipped princess.
Shantanu & Nikhil’s show notes were far too deep in reference points especially since they threw in the towel and conformed to produce a bridalwear collection. Why not simply state that you want to do a different type of couture collection?
Design duo, Pankaj &Nidhi took inspiration from Polish craft for the Autumn/Winter 2012 collection. Quite a niche look hey? The designers managed to make Polish craft look wonderfully contemporary as they zoomed their focus
Day 1 from Wills India Fashion Week in Delhi got off to a cracking start. Autumn/Winter shows in Delhi are usually of loose relevance as designers forget it gets Very Cold Indeed here in Winter and offer bales of chiffon to supposedly keep us warm. With a vodka shot please.
Veteran Indian designers showcase alongside the new generation and here I present three designers that showed yesterday and who can demonstrate the bredth of fashion coming from India:
This beautiful dress is by Preeti Chandra who offered a collection inspired by ‘matador chic’. It’s quite a tried and tested inspiration of designers from all over the world