The Uncensored Household
Rohit Bal @ WIFW SS15
Rohit Bal @ WIFW SS15
Wow!
So much beauty, luxury, indulgence, fashion and history all in the most stunning historic Mughal ruins in one of Delhi’s top tourist sites, Rohit Bal raised the bar to tremendous heights for Indian fashion. Even the moon and the weather obeyed the designer’s ode to beauty. The moon shone brightly to the right of one of the tombs at Qutab Minar and the outdoor temperature dropped from Sweaty to Serene.
Pero @ WIFW SS15
Aneeth Arora had the honour of the opening show for her still young fashion brand, pero, at WIFW SS15 igniting the buzz for the week ahead.
The catwalk was covered in faux grass and planted with real flowers that looked adorable. The gift for us in the media side included cute little herbs planted in teeny pots, I pinched a tulsi – thanks, Aneeth I’d been meaning to get one for ages!
Pero is a brand quite known for its cottons
Namrata Joshipura Grand Finale WIFW AW 2014
Oh the pressure! The opening and closing shows for Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week are usually the most anticipated and highest profile. This year, the grand finale honour was granted to designer Namrata Joshipura whose signature silhouettes include red carpet gowns as well as barely there bodysuits.
Namrata Joshipura Grand Finale WIFW AW 2014
Pero by Aneeth Arora WIFW AW 2014
‘You’re in next season’ I told my friend. ‘Whaaattt?’ Was my confused friend’s reply as she’s never in or on trend or bothered.
My friend is an Austrian chef living in Delhi. We were out looking for check fabric a couple of weeks ago for her company branding so I was pleasantly surprised to see checks were in two shows at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week AW14. And that too in both the prints we selected, blue checks and red checks.
Pankaj & Nidhi WIFW AW 2014
Pankaj & Nidhi’s show was sponsored by Fiama Di Wills so it was a rather slick production, albeit with a fashionably late start. Pankaj & Nidhi’s signature looks is placement embroideries and graphics in bold combinations.
Pankaj & Nidhi WIFW AW 2014
The collection notes referenced the history of playing cards linking their origin from ancient China to their appearance in Spain and Portugal. So far so good, especially in the graphics department. Then the designers also took inspiration from matadors in a bullring. I think this was too much for me.
Zubair Kirmani WIFW AW 2014
Two designers were inspired by Kashmir for AW 2014/15: Zubair Kirmani and Mrilnalini. It was great to see how the same inspiration can produce such different results. Zubair’s collection was feminine indulgence and prettiness whereas Mrilnalini had a utilitarian approach.
Anita Dongre WIFW AW 2014
A few designers at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week were inspired by the concept of a free spirited bohemian, vintage loving traveller.
Anita Dongre WIFW AW 2014
Anita Dongre’s Jaipur bride muse made Europe her playground for AW 2014. Gorgeous tousled hair, peacock eyes and tassels were the continuing thread in an altogether beautiful collection. The European reference didn’t come across as strong as the designer may have wanted as the prints and overall styling as very Indian ethnic. Perhaps the Jaipur bride decided to park herself in Andalucia?
Soltee by Sulakshana Monga WIFW AW 2014
‘Dark Gives Balance’ was the title of Soltee by Sulakshana Monga’s show for AW 2014. A collection that was dominated by nudes, browns and golden tones, the looks that were presented were glamorous and bold. Including floor sweeping gowns, menswear and flatteringly draped separates, the collection had only good times in mind.
Soltee by Sulakshana Monga WIFW AW 2014
Hemant & Nandita WIFW AW 2014
Hemant & Nandita WIFW AW 2014
‘Plush decoded’ was the title of designers Hemant & Nandita’s show but it could also easily have been New York decoded. Luxurious sportswear inspired separates ensued down the catwalk with mesh park fences as the backdrop.
Josh Goraya WIFW AW 2014
Upcoming and talented designer, Josh Goraya showcased his latest collection in a segment called Hi5 where five new designers pick ten looks each for a joint fashion show.
Designing for both men and women, it is the menswear that I was more drawn to simply because the looks were so cosmopolitan and had interesting design elements without losing any masculinity. This is important for lots of men when looking for new designs.
Samant Chauhan WIFW AW 2014
‘Some travels take you so far that even when you return you are gone forever…probably it’s then they call it a journey’…the Rajputana Traveller.
Samant Chauhan WIFW AW 2014
Designer, Samant Chauhan grows in confidence each season with new chapters from his Rajputana fashion series. Continually drawing on inspiration from his native Indian state he keeps the collection looking bold and structured yet incredibly feminine.
Satya Paul WIFW AW 2014
The latest Satya Paul collection designed by Masaba Gupta was a lighthearted take on print and was entitled ‘Icarus’. The show notes say that ‘Icarus’ is an effort to revel in the cheerful, suggest the alternative and slightly alter the envelope. When I googled it I found reference to Greek mythology so let’s stick with the Satya Paul meaning.
Satya Paul WIFW AW 2014
Masaba is experimental and contemporary with her perspective on print and she is widely copied in the Indian export market. Her lipstick print last season and the water tap this season are fun and a welcome departure from flora and fauna inspired prints.
Abraham & Thakore WIFW AW 2014
Design duet, Abraham & Thakore’s collection was sponsored by Twinings, my favourite tea brand and a part of every morning of my life.
Abraham & Thakore WIFW AW 2014
The collection was aimed at sleek uniform dressing for the city, touching on safari. Who is the hunter or the hunted? Up to you! I loved the wild silks left in their natural golden shade and I particularly loved the leopard print twosie with the trench coat, it is so sophisticated yet wild.
Nikasha WIFW AW 2014
Regular Chatterboxes know I am a real sucker for Sufi poetry and I was delighted to find that designer, Nikasha had a Rumi poem in her show notes:
In your light I learn how to love…
In your beauty how to make poems
You dance inside my chest where no one else sees you,
but sometimes I do, and that sight becomes this art.
Wah wah, masha’allah! Ok, back to the collection.
Amit GT WIFW AW 2014
Designer Amit GT showed a glamorous red carpet collection for slender leading ladies in their element in front of flashing lights. Although not directly acknowledged the collection was heavily inspired by the last Bond movie, Skyfall. Oriental baroque is the official inspiration, nevertheless, the instrumental of Adele’s theme tune kicked the show off.
Rahul Mishra WIFW AW 2014
The 2014 winner of the prize that launched 1,000 designers (okay well not quite) …the internationally coveted Woolmark prize was awarded this year to Indian designer, Rahul Mishra. The prize has been credited with turning previous winners such as Giorgio Armani into household names.
Rahul Mishra WIFW AW 2014
The Woolmark body and awarding panel said of Rahul’s collection that one of the reasons his stood out amongst the other entrants were his innovative approach to wool as a Summer fibre was refreshing. They also admired his use of merino wool as a yarn for exquisitely detailed embroideries.
Ashima-Leena WIFW AW 2014
Ashima-Leena’s collection inspiration is the tried and tested journey down the old silk route. I say this not to criticise but to emphasise that it remains fertile ground and has provided centuries of ideas to creatives.
Myoho WIFW AW 2014
The latest Myoho by Kiran & Meghna collection entitled ‘Souk Souk’ is inspired by Morocco but with yogic aesthetics and a rustic colour palette of Persian blue, slate black and sindoor red (this is the red powder Hindu brides traditionlly wear in their hair parting).
Shantanu & Nikhil WIFW AW 2014
Shantanu & Nikhil are incredibly talented designers with impeccable attention to detail. Their latest collection was inspired by timeless vintage travel. The powder, blush and antique rose and apricot hues reminisced British colonial times. Lace was the dominant detail and it was especially striking on the fingerless gloves worn by all the models.
Raakesh Agarvwal showed a collection unlike any other (this was apparent even though it was still only day 1). Leather, audacious glamour and lots of skin meant this was a collection for younger women unaffected by silly things such as Winter.
Raakesh Agarvwal WIFW AW 2014
Vineet Bahl WIFW AW 2014
My fellow blogging buddies and I had to keep reminding ourselves that we were seeing AW collections as both Anupamaa and Vineet Bahl showed collections that could easily overlap the current Spring/Summer trends. Shame we have to wait for the collections to hit stores!
Vineet Bahl used to be one of my favourite Indian designers due to his Western silhouettes which were gorgeous. Over the last couple of years he has started specialising in India ethnic wear which I guess has more commercial sense for him but he was truly a refreshingly different designer for Western design.
His new AW14 is inspired by the celebration of every moment of life without prejudice and judgement. The collection began with muted earthy handloom silks occasionally peppered with neon embellishment detail and pastel shades slowly crept in and made way for a myriad of vintage inspired colours and delicious combinations such as Prussian blue with peach. Want!!
Tarun Tahiliani WIFW AW 2014
‘…Ornament as the principal embellishment is the glue that binds this collection together’ Tarun Tahiliani.
Setting the standard for the rest of Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week with a stellar opening show veteran Indian designer, Tarun Tahiliani, did not disappoint. His AW14/15 ready to wear collection was an indulgent voyage in worldly ornamentation and clever layering. Precious jewellery provided the colour palette and inspiration for embroideries.
Ruby, emerald, onyx, sapphire, gold, turquoise…an Aladdin’s cave of rich inspirational colour. Textiles included silk brocades, draped into structured salwar trousers and other fine silks used in flowing kaftan inspired silhouettes or as a base for amazing kaleidoscope prints. I was lucky enough to have a sneak preview of the collection at the fittings prior to the shows and the fabrics and styles are even more gorgeous close up.
Design by Taurn Tahiliani
5 days, 31 shows and 119 designers… later this month I will bring you extensive coverage from Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2014. The dates for your diaries or mobile phone reminders are 26-30 March so be sure to check the blog for all the latest shows and reviews.
The week will be opened by celebrated designer, Tarun Tahiliani.
Ashish N Soni SS14 Collection at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Grand Finale
With a live jazz band and a gigantic and glamorous tiered red carpet stage set for the grand finale show, designer Ashish N Soni‘s collection oozed old glamour with all the entrails.
Inspired by ‘La Dolce Vita’ the collection was characterised by understated simplicity, flawless lines, immaculate cuts
WIFW Pankaj & Nidhi SS14
Intricate adornments from Pompeii all the way to Medieval church facades…Indian designer duo, Panjak & Nidhi seemed to thoroughly enjoy researching the inspiration behind their Spring/Summer 2014 collection. Hand cut fabrics appliqued to give a 3D effect and transparency were key looks.
WIFW: Samant Chauhan SS14
Young Indian fashion designer, Samant Chauhan designs beautiful clothing for both women and men. He exhibits internationally and is on an upward trajectory after many years of dedication to his art.
Samant was born in Rajasthan and is passionate about working with master weavers from his area. The NIFT graduate embarked upon fashion after first completing a physics degree at Bhagalpur University. Samant consistently selects neutral and softer tones to counter the colourful spectrum typically offered by other designers in India.
So Samant, please tell me about your latest collection.
This is the series of Rajputana and this is the fourth season we are doing the same concept.
What is Rajputana?
Rajputana is about reviving the Rajputana name. Rajasthan’s ancient name is Rajputana and I belong to that place which is one of the reasons I wanted to work on it.
WIFW: Samant Chauhan SS14
The first season we did a collection, the story was based on how the Britishers influenced the entire Rajputana region … so we were inspired by a lot of Victorian motifs and shapes and volume.
WIFW Designer: Nachiket Barve
WIFW Designer: Nachiket Barve
Old is the new New but not upcycled vintage … Indian designer Nachiket Barve was inspired by fossils and the balance between the preservation of fragile and strong forms. The soft colour palette included oat and dusty rose: all shades that suit most skin tones. Dyeing techniques were experimented with
WIFW Designer: Anupamaa
Internationally acclaimed fashion designer, Anupama Dayaal kicked off Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Spring/Summer14 with an explosion of colour and bold prints. Some collections could be viewed as transcending seasons, however, Anupamaa’s screamed SUNSHINE. Bright pinks, orange and yellow tones worn with tousled hair and beach foot accessories completed the looks.
Over at Rajesh Pratap Singh’s show the catwalk had been transformed into an Autumnal woodland. Rajesh Pratap Singh is the current brand ambassador for Woolmark and the show was sponsored by them.
The ground lay strewn with rust coloured foliage and bleak trees glowed with pod lights. The effect was magical.
One of my favourite collections so far at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2013 is Shantanu & Nikhil‘s ode to the luxury traveller with reference to The Thar, India’s largest desert.
Designer Tarun Tahiliani is a formidable force in the Indian fashion industry and this season he took inspiration from the Kumbh, a religious festival, and Sadhus – the saffron draped wandering spiritual men.
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