The Uncensored Household
Namrata Joshipura Grand Finale WIFW AW 2014
Oh the pressure! The opening and closing shows for Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week are usually the most anticipated and highest profile. This year, the grand finale honour was granted to designer Namrata Joshipura whose signature silhouettes include red carpet gowns as well as barely there bodysuits.
Namrata Joshipura Grand Finale WIFW AW 2014
Pero by Aneeth Arora WIFW AW 2014
‘You’re in next season’ I told my friend. ‘Whaaattt?’ Was my confused friend’s reply as she’s never in or on trend or bothered.
My friend is an Austrian chef living in Delhi. We were out looking for check fabric a couple of weeks ago for her company branding so I was pleasantly surprised to see checks were in two shows at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week AW14. And that too in both the prints we selected, blue checks and red checks.
Pankaj & Nidhi WIFW AW 2014
Pankaj & Nidhi’s show was sponsored by Fiama Di Wills so it was a rather slick production, albeit with a fashionably late start. Pankaj & Nidhi’s signature looks is placement embroideries and graphics in bold combinations.
Pankaj & Nidhi WIFW AW 2014
The collection notes referenced the history of playing cards linking their origin from ancient China to their appearance in Spain and Portugal. So far so good, especially in the graphics department. Then the designers also took inspiration from matadors in a bullring. I think this was too much for me.
Zubair Kirmani WIFW AW 2014
Two designers were inspired by Kashmir for AW 2014/15: Zubair Kirmani and Mrilnalini. It was great to see how the same inspiration can produce such different results. Zubair’s collection was feminine indulgence and prettiness whereas Mrilnalini had a utilitarian approach.
Anita Dongre WIFW AW 2014
A few designers at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week were inspired by the concept of a free spirited bohemian, vintage loving traveller.
Anita Dongre WIFW AW 2014
Anita Dongre’s Jaipur bride muse made Europe her playground for AW 2014. Gorgeous tousled hair, peacock eyes and tassels were the continuing thread in an altogether beautiful collection. The European reference didn’t come across as strong as the designer may have wanted as the prints and overall styling as very Indian ethnic. Perhaps the Jaipur bride decided to park herself in Andalucia?
Soltee by Sulakshana Monga WIFW AW 2014
‘Dark Gives Balance’ was the title of Soltee by Sulakshana Monga’s show for AW 2014. A collection that was dominated by nudes, browns and golden tones, the looks that were presented were glamorous and bold. Including floor sweeping gowns, menswear and flatteringly draped separates, the collection had only good times in mind.
Soltee by Sulakshana Monga WIFW AW 2014
Hemant & Nandita WIFW AW 2014
Hemant & Nandita WIFW AW 2014
‘Plush decoded’ was the title of designers Hemant & Nandita’s show but it could also easily have been New York decoded. Luxurious sportswear inspired separates ensued down the catwalk with mesh park fences as the backdrop.
Josh Goraya WIFW AW 2014
Upcoming and talented designer, Josh Goraya showcased his latest collection in a segment called Hi5 where five new designers pick ten looks each for a joint fashion show.
Designing for both men and women, it is the menswear that I was more drawn to simply because the looks were so cosmopolitan and had interesting design elements without losing any masculinity. This is important for lots of men when looking for new designs.
Samant Chauhan WIFW AW 2014
‘Some travels take you so far that even when you return you are gone forever…probably it’s then they call it a journey’…the Rajputana Traveller.
Samant Chauhan WIFW AW 2014
Designer, Samant Chauhan grows in confidence each season with new chapters from his Rajputana fashion series. Continually drawing on inspiration from his native Indian state he keeps the collection looking bold and structured yet incredibly feminine.
Satya Paul WIFW AW 2014
The latest Satya Paul collection designed by Masaba Gupta was a lighthearted take on print and was entitled ‘Icarus’. The show notes say that ‘Icarus’ is an effort to revel in the cheerful, suggest the alternative and slightly alter the envelope. When I googled it I found reference to Greek mythology so let’s stick with the Satya Paul meaning.
Satya Paul WIFW AW 2014
Masaba is experimental and contemporary with her perspective on print and she is widely copied in the Indian export market. Her lipstick print last season and the water tap this season are fun and a welcome departure from flora and fauna inspired prints.
Abraham & Thakore WIFW AW 2014
Design duet, Abraham & Thakore’s collection was sponsored by Twinings, my favourite tea brand and a part of every morning of my life.
Abraham & Thakore WIFW AW 2014
The collection was aimed at sleek uniform dressing for the city, touching on safari. Who is the hunter or the hunted? Up to you! I loved the wild silks left in their natural golden shade and I particularly loved the leopard print twosie with the trench coat, it is so sophisticated yet wild.
Nikasha WIFW AW 2014
Regular Chatterboxes know I am a real sucker for Sufi poetry and I was delighted to find that designer, Nikasha had a Rumi poem in her show notes:
In your light I learn how to love…
In your beauty how to make poems
You dance inside my chest where no one else sees you,
but sometimes I do, and that sight becomes this art.
Wah wah, masha’allah! Ok, back to the collection.
Amit GT WIFW AW 2014
Designer Amit GT showed a glamorous red carpet collection for slender leading ladies in their element in front of flashing lights. Although not directly acknowledged the collection was heavily inspired by the last Bond movie, Skyfall. Oriental baroque is the official inspiration, nevertheless, the instrumental of Adele’s theme tune kicked the show off.
Rahul Mishra WIFW AW 2014
The 2014 winner of the prize that launched 1,000 designers (okay well not quite) …the internationally coveted Woolmark prize was awarded this year to Indian designer, Rahul Mishra. The prize has been credited with turning previous winners such as Giorgio Armani into household names.
Rahul Mishra WIFW AW 2014
The Woolmark body and awarding panel said of Rahul’s collection that one of the reasons his stood out amongst the other entrants were his innovative approach to wool as a Summer fibre was refreshing. They also admired his use of merino wool as a yarn for exquisitely detailed embroideries.
Ashima-Leena WIFW AW 2014
Ashima-Leena’s collection inspiration is the tried and tested journey down the old silk route. I say this not to criticise but to emphasise that it remains fertile ground and has provided centuries of ideas to creatives.
Myoho WIFW AW 2014
The latest Myoho by Kiran & Meghna collection entitled ‘Souk Souk’ is inspired by Morocco but with yogic aesthetics and a rustic colour palette of Persian blue, slate black and sindoor red (this is the red powder Hindu brides traditionlly wear in their hair parting).
Shantanu & Nikhil WIFW AW 2014
Shantanu & Nikhil are incredibly talented designers with impeccable attention to detail. Their latest collection was inspired by timeless vintage travel. The powder, blush and antique rose and apricot hues reminisced British colonial times. Lace was the dominant detail and it was especially striking on the fingerless gloves worn by all the models.
Raakesh Agarvwal showed a collection unlike any other (this was apparent even though it was still only day 1). Leather, audacious glamour and lots of skin meant this was a collection for younger women unaffected by silly things such as Winter.
Raakesh Agarvwal WIFW AW 2014
The hottest ticket in town was the Manish Arora’s closing show for Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2013. “Squeeze up some more!” were the cries from the pretty PR organisers to the press pack as we shuffled this way and that to make room for late arrivals.
Manish Arora already presented his collection inspired by his trip to the Burning Man art festival in Nevada in Paris
Design by Payal Pratap
Payal Pratap and Rahul Mishara’s presentations were sponsored by Fiama Di Wills, the Indian beauty product giant. Under the theme ‘Be Young’ both collections pined for yesteryear.
Payal Pratap’s collection was subtitled ‘Opening my Grandmother’s Trunk’
Styled and visualised in the theme of a circus, the circus was not actually cited in the show notes. Pero by Aneeth Arora is the winner of Vogue India’s first Fashion Fund and this was her first presentation since winning the award, for which she received the cash prize after the show.
Indian Celebrity, Esha Gupta featured in Manish Malhotra’s show
There are few designers in the Indian fashion industry that can start a trend like Manish Malhotra. His influence in Indian cinema is so great and the trickling effect on to TV sets beamed around a billion homes is no small accomplishment. In this way,
Designer Rajdeep Ranawat’s collection was inspired by a hypothetical world with a hint of exotic Medieval. The collection featured intricate embroideries and lovely accessories. The Elton John embellished glasses were my favourite.
Over at Rajesh Pratap Singh’s show the catwalk had been transformed into an Autumnal woodland. Rajesh Pratap Singh is the current brand ambassador for Woolmark and the show was sponsored by them.
The ground lay strewn with rust coloured foliage and bleak trees glowed with pod lights. The effect was magical.
Kavita Bhartia is the owner of the Ogaan chain of boutiques with stores in Delhi and Mumbai. Kavita started her own label in 2001.
The collection she presented this season was entitled ‘Hypercraft’ to reflect her combining technology and craft for her designs.
One of my favourite collections so far at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2013 is Shantanu & Nikhil‘s ode to the luxury traveller with reference to The Thar, India’s largest desert.
Designer Tarun Tahiliani is a formidable force in the Indian fashion industry and this season he took inspiration from the Kumbh, a religious festival, and Sadhus – the saffron draped wandering spiritual men.
The tension in the lead up to fashion weeks is tangible in studios where designers will be fussing over the finishes to garments that have taken months to come to fruition. Paris fashion week is currently in full swing, however, I’m in Delhi and Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2013 is under two weeks away.
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